Day Nine and Ten

Bain’s Kloof. What is becoming with the passage of time the most memorable part of the trip was our overnight hike/camping in Bain’s Kloof (kloof is Afrikaans for ravine). I didn’t think it was going to turn out that way, thanks to Paul’s friends. At dinner with them the night before, we were asked our plans. When Paul told them he was taking me on a overnight hike in Bain’s Kloof the reaction ranged from eye rolling to head shakes of pity to gasps of horror. It gets hot this time of year. We drove about 1.5 hours out of Cape Town to a mountainous region and parked on the edge of the ravine. Our hike took us 6 km into wilderness, starting with a quick descent to the river and then a quick climb that followed a path affording views of the valley with glimpses of the river and even a gorgeous waterfall. We started at the Wit River (White), then followed the Bobbejaan (Baboon) River at its branch. About half way, we met the river and stopped to cool down. South Africa is one of the few countries in the world that you can drink water in the wild without concern. After scrambling over a path of fist sized rock, being scratched by thorny and spiky plants from the knee down, and blasted by the African sun, a swim in the chilly water was more than welcome. While bathing in a pool at least seven feet deep, we saw baboon with babies about 100 yards above us. They moved across the path we’d just come and then out of sight but not without barking a few times. The feel of the cool water on my throat and body and the heat of the rock warmed by the sun are sensations that I can still call forth when I close my eyes. We snacked, rested, and moved on to our camp several kilometers up the river. The last part of the hike was the most difficult and the promised pool at our campsite was a welcome sight. We were rewarded with a long viewing of three buck that we think were Klipspringer (Afrikaans for rock jumper), springing up the rocks like mountain goats. Our campsite did not disappoint. As the sun set, the mist moved in low over the hilltops. Overhead the sky remained clear and the stars lit the night. Lovely. We woke with the sun, our tent covered in dew, and made our way back down with another swim at the pool where we’d seen baboon the day before.